‘Gammelyn’s Daughter’

‘Gammelyn’s Daughter, a Waking Dream’

‘Euphaeidae’ (gossamerwing)

’While Nightingale’s Wept’
Gammelyn’s Daughter was such a precious shoot for me, and one that I have found myself reflecting on a great deal. If I’m honest this was the shoot that finally made me decide to leave my career in fashion forever, and to commit wholly to becoming an artist. The pictures have become my memento of this turning point, and despite having a very panicky start on the day, they have probably turned out to be some of the most beautiful photos I have ever taken.
The set was completely unplanned, and wasn’t part of my original ending for Wonderland, but sometimes things just happen, and I’m a huge believer in following your gut instinct. It all began back in August 2011 after I had spent 2 solid days location scouting by car, bike, and on foot. I was in the process of searching for a place to shoot the ‘The Queen’s Armada’ and was beginning to feel a little desperate. After 16 hours of exploring, I was sunburnt, wired and had spent far too much time running around forests and fishing lakes on my own muttering to myself like a madwoman. It was a hot Sunday afternoon and my long suffering husband Matt had made the mistake of offering to keep me company on my final search of the day. I had dragged him through endless undergrowth for hours, and just as we decided it was time to give up and head home, we passed a small car park at the edge of a wood, and decided to have one last look. We headed through the trees following a path to the crest of a hill, where the sky opened overhead and there suddenly beneath us, the ground fell away to a vast valley brimming knee deep in soft purple-pink heather. It took my breath away…… I have never seen wild heather in full bloom, and certainly never expected in my wildest dreams to discover such a huge area full of it. I couldn’t speak, I think I let out a high-pitched squeak, and threw my arms in the air, it was magnificent….. the type of thing I could only dream of finding, but never imagined I would. The whole landscape was purple, even the trunks of the trees appeared to be stained a matching hue, and between my toes the earth was a soft delicate grey sand. It was extraordinary, so wild and organic, nothing like the regimented lanes of farmed lavender I had used in the past. I was uncontrollable, bouncing up and down scrabbling for my phone to call Elbie and Katie, no matter what happened, we had to shoot in this place, and do it before the flowers lost their colour. The whole way home I sat in the car fidgeting, repeatedly flicking back through the pictures I took on my phone, to think we could have driven straight past that magical goldmine and never known it was there…. I couldn’t believe our luck.

So a date was set to shoot. It was an unbelievable coincidence, but I already had a dress I had previously designed for Wonderland in a perfect ghostly pink. It was made from meters of extremely delicate silk, in the lightest weight of chiffon you can buy which behaves beautifully for movement, drape, and is sheer enough to let light through. It was a ridiculous stroke of luck, and at least gave me something to start with. Over the days that followed I went to the location for the dawn on my own, and slowly a character began to build in my head. These mornings were so precious to me; my pulse was racing as I arrived each day to be met with each incredible sunrise….. the light was spectacular, and the whole forest comforted me with its gentle colours and the warmth of its sand. In some ways the landscape felt alien with its unusual grey / pinks and towering Nordic pines, but also strangely familiar, I felt connected to it and safe, despite being a woman there on my own .
After spending some time sitting in the heather I knew that I wanted to create a picture unlike my other fields of flowers, I wanted this one to fill the frame with solid colour and detail, so it would have to be shot from above. I wanted the image to be beautiful but have a deeper, darker feel. The idea of an eternal dream, an endless sleep,….. a most beautiful floral death began to fill my head. The lightness of the dress fabric and the way it would create hundreds of folds when spread over the flowers, reminded me of the way crypt statues are carved – how the form of the body is never lost, yet the fabric becomes the main aesthetic of the craftsmanship. This then led me further into thinking of religious iconography, the depiction of saints, and their typical poses. This may sound like a very random chain of thought but it seemed to make perfect sense. I wanted my character to be royal, exquisite, yet distant and unreachable – both in the fact she could not be broken from her endless sleep, but also unapproachable in the way religious statues are to be respected and not touched. Creating a beautiful floral image of a woman that is not sickly sweet, or contrived was my goal. Something haunting that made you question who she was, and why she was there. So these were my building blocks, the idea of her body floating on the flowers also tied in perfectly with the importance of how each new character must own a galleon ship, which some of you may have begun to notice as the series has developed.

researching the carved fabric of statues
The longer I spent at the location, the more I began to look further than just the flowers, the grey sand began to feel important and so did the insects that surrounded me. I came across dragonflies by the lake at the edge of the valley, which then led me towards creating the ‘Euphaeidae’ picture (Latin name of the dragonfly commonly known as a ‘gossamerwing’). Once again I had actually already started making some wings a few months before discovering the heather, and had planned to shoot a far more stylized and darker character using them. I loved the wings because they weren’t ‘pretty’ they reminded me of a leafs skeleton – imperfect, mismatching, and autumnal. I decided to embed them into lumps of mod-rock (plaster of paris coated bandages) and then hand painted these with tinted shade of latex to give them a gnarled flesh and bone appearance. I had always avoided creating a winged creature for the series before because of the cringe-worthy connotations they usually bring. I decided, that whether she would be deemed as a fairy or a dragonfly, I wanted to avoid every stereotype in the book – pointy ears, glitter and all the other slightly naff associations you often encounter with this subject. I wanted my girl to appear utterly real, natural and believable, which meant striping things back to the bare bones, and is why is in the end I chose to shoot her nude on the day.

Working on the ‘bone’ parts of the wings
Finally I had one more idea in my head, which is where the characters name came from; it was one of my favourite childhood stories ‘Gammelyn the dressmaker’. As always I never want to recreate something that already exists, and so the concept came from one of the books beautiful illustrations. It was taken from the part where Gammelyn (the royal dressmaker) makes a magic cloak from butterfly wings that enables him to fly away from the palace where he had been enslaved. The dress I had designed had so much fabric in it, that I knew the movement would be incredible, and the idea of recreating flight was something I have always wanted to attempt. The only challenge was I wanted to create it for real, and not through endless layers in Photoshop.

‘Gammelyn The Dressmaker’ book illustration that inspired me
Second to the book illustration I was also inspired by the Chris Cunningham Gucci advert, and after seeing so many incredible sunrises that week, I decided I wanted to incorporate flight, colour, the dawn and the sheerness of the fabric. It was a bit of a grand idea, but after obsessing over whether it was possible I was determined to give it a try. And so ‘Gammelyn’s daughter’ was born. In truth, it became a melting pot of all the things I had started developing, and suddenly tied together all the loose ends like it had been planned for months. It helped me form a link and identity for the character that comes next, and in the end everything fell into place.
The night before the shoot everyone came to stay at my house, as we had to be at the location for just after the dawn. For once I felt quite prepared and very sure of my plan, the order in which I wanted to shoot and how each scene would look. I felt confident and excited; the sunrise had been perfect all week, what could possibly go wrong?
…… Well of course the answer to that was ‘the weather’. After days of picture perfect light, when we arrived at the location and unpacked the van, I looked at the sky and felt my hopes slowly dissolve into the murky grey drizzle of a very uneventful sunrise. We dragged everything to the spot I had planned for the first glorious picture of Katie as the dragonfly rising above the flowers against the sun …… to be met with dull dark wet heather, covered in spider webs. My heart sank into my boots, inside I was destroyed and horribly embarrassed, as this was the first time I had two new assistants helping me, and I already felt like a fool. So much had been based on the sunlight that I genuinely did not know what to do. Everyone huddled together with the equipment, whist I frantically marched about desperate for inspiration on how to turn things around. During this incredibly awkward hour I fell down the same hole in the ground 3 times, completely soaked my clothes grovelling around in the dew, and covered myself and my boots in mud! I could hear the muffled sniggers from Matt and the others as I fell down the hole for the third time, and had to admit the whole thing was a disaster bordering on a Monty Python sketch. Its times like this when I feel you can either be defeated by nature or let it guide you, and in hindsight the way the day changed actually became the one thing that probably made the images better than my original plans. We always joke that my mum ‘does the weather’ for the shoots and I found myself muttering under my breath… ‘What now mum, seriously what on earth do I do now?’ I looked around me and the only interesting features were the chandelier droplets of water on the spider webs. I tired to pick up the stems with them on, but they instantly shattered and disappeared. So I followed them, looking for a place to position Katie. This went on for another 20 minutes and I was aware of the light changing and the day beginning. Previously during my week of prep I had also become mildly obsessed with the new iamamiwhoami video, which captured a beautiful mysterious foggy dawn,……. and if nothing else, I didn’t want to lose this similar atmosphere that we had now found ourselves in.

Video still from iamamiwhoami’s ‘Clump’
Eventually guided by the webs, I sat Katie near an interesting cluster. I tried to shoot her against them, but nothing was working until I stopped and suddenly looked at the bigger picture. Without realising it, I had sat her in the middle of a perfectly framed deep V created by the distant trees, …….. the landscape began and ended with her profile…… and her pale skin glowed against a spectrum of tonal purple, blues and greens. The sun began to break through the clouds, and slowly the shadow of the veins in the wings crept across her back as though they were embedding themselves into her skin. The others began to notice and Elbie let out a squeal. It changed everything; the wings became part of her, the framing of the trees, the cold light ……. I honestly think in all the years I have shot Katie, she has never looked more beautiful. I felt like this moment was made for her, she looked so fresh, ethereal… but most importantly entirely believable. Even though I had finished I remember hesitating for a few brief moments to look at her a little longer. Sometimes I think she has no idea how captivating she can be, she truly was my vision, my little dragonfly brought to life. I didn’t expect it to feel the way I did, but it was so true… I think I even held my breath. The picture has remained a precious memory for me, and now every time I look at it, I can’t seem to separate it from this piece of music,…. the two together sum up the emotion I felt.

(* close up detail) – I loved how the shadow of the wings appeared like blood capillaries on Katie’s face.
So, finally the first shot was over and the day felt like it had begun. After that initial picture it sounds silly but the day seemed less about me and my ideas and more about following instinct and the surroundings,…… like nature was helping us. I accepted my plans would change, but also appreciated things might be better for it.
We then moved on to the ‘flying’ scene, which was absolutely hilarious to create and a relief to have some fun. I had thought of an idea during the week to create a powerful wind, and the results were unbelievable when we tried it out. Sadly its times like this that I have had to question how I share everything on this blog, and unfortunately after coming across a lot of copycat pictures online, there are some secrets that I now feel I have to keep in order to protect what I do. This also goes for explaining the dragonfly wings, which I have now received over 60 emails about from people. I’m greatly touched by how kind and lovely most were, but others bizarrely wrote to me just asking to be given the wings directly, or demanded exact step by step instructions on how they were made. I even had one letter telling me to ‘hurry up’ with this post so they could copy them! I became a little uncomfortable with this, and decided that the wings along with the wind technique needed to be keep private, or at least until I produce the Wonderland book, I hope people can understand why I have done this.
Anyway, here are some really funny and pretty amazing first attempts with our low-tech ‘wind machine’. It took three people to create the effect and none of what you can see here has been manipulated in Photoshop. I took these pictures from a stepladder dying with laughter, with heather sellotaped under the camera in a bin bag to create the blurred out floral framing. By this point some people were awake and were out walking their dogs, they certainly got a surprise!!

After we shot this scene I thought the picture was ticked off the list, but I’ve begun trying to reassess experiences if I have time on location, and found it can sometimes create unexpected, maybe even better results re-shooting the same picture from a second perspective. In doing this, and knowing I already had something good enough, it made the second set up a far less strained atmosphere, and a much freer mood. The picture I took later was better and far more dramatic, and was certainly worth an extra half hour of playing around.
(below are some detail shots from warming up for this second attempt)

Finally we moved on to the full frame aerial shot of Katie dying in the heather. This one took over 1.5 hours to set up but was worth every minute. Elbie and I have talked about this picture a lot since the shoot and we both feel we learnt a great deal from creating it. From Elbie’s perspective it was one of the few times she has finished her make-up on location and the results were really noticeable. Unlike most of our shoots, there wasn’t the luxury of having hours to work on the hair and make-up before we set off. Instead Elbie finished the job surrounded by the flowers in the mid morning sun, and the difference was huge. She absorbed the colour level around her, and could match exact shades to the flowers and the grey soil. She said to me afterwards it was that same feeling of nature guiding her hand, it’s strange but we both felt so similar about how the day was progressing.

We then began by laying Katie down on a bed of pillows that raised her body level to the height of the flowers and set to work on creating the scene. Once again I chose to use nature to define the effects, rather than use artificial elements. We collected buckets of the grey sand and sieved it from a height over the fabric of the dress. It weighed the folds down and created deep defined creases, just like the clothes on the statues that had inspired me. Next we took piles of hair extensions and soaked them in a mix of water and sand and imbedded them around Katie’s own hair. They were absolutely gross, but it blended and bound her to the flowers, like she had been there for years, curling the pieces through the flowers also amplified that ‘floating’ look I was hoping for.


Making the pretty horrible dirty hair pieces with water and the grey sand (and Elbie looking very pleased with the results! )
Finally we spent a long time spraying her hair with subtle shades of white, pink and purple, as well as the visible parts of her body. I paid specific attention to her feet, as I wanted them exposed, to bring attention back to the religious undertones of the pose. The drape of the fabric, the soft greys and swirls of the hair worked so beautifully together. It might sound silly but to me it felt like Wonderland was growing up - less about harsh brash colours, more about respecting the surroundings and using them to effect the image and work in harmony with it. The overcast sky was perfect for the shot as strong light would have bleached out the details of Katie’s pale skin and the dress, and so the afternoon was warm and silent, and felt heavy with the thick clouds that watched from above.

Eventually after endless trips to the top of the stepladder and back down to rearrange Katie’s hair, dress, and the little tin ship in her hands everything was ready. I think when I finally looked through the lens it was quite an emotional picture of me, it was just one of the most beautiful images I think I have ever created. Katie had fallen asleep and the whole mood came to life, I was so happy it was her, who maybe deserved something so beautiful after all the dreadful things I have made her go through in the past – swamps, snow, mud and mosquito’s! Everything was better than I had imagined, and it somehow grabbed that uncertainty I wanted. After taking a series of shots I then added layers of dried hydrangea petals around her head and across her body to create another colour level to the image. I’m beginning to learn that ‘more is more’ with my work, cramming the images with detail is something I enjoy, and colour is always so vital to this. I’ve learnt to try and bring anything and everything I have lying around at home on the off chance It might add that ‘something special’, even if it isn’t an obvious link at the time.




Finally I took the close up portrait that became ‘A waking dream’. It was a complete last minute fluke of a shot, but has now become one of my all time favourites. I didn’t notice any of the details until I got home and saw the picture big on my laptop – the way the flowers framed her one vacant eye, and cut across her lip, and the contrast of her pale painted hands, against the metal of the ship. Katie’s eyes are such an extraordinary blue, they seemed to just slice through the frame, it felt so intimate like she really was waking from a spell, yet somehow maintained a distant uncomfortable edge. I don’t feel like the resulting picture is welcoming or entirely human, but nonetheless you feel like you are there next to her opening her eyes for the first time, ….. it feels private which I really love.
Anyway…. I’ve probably written far too much as always. I think for me it was wonderful to feel a little more connected with these pictures again in the way that some of the very early Wonderland pictures felt – it was less about a huge production and more about my relationship with Katie, nature and the weather that day. It was hard going, and tiring, but the location was comforting, quiet and we weren’t disturbed for the entire day. In the end we also managed to get that second attempt at the flying picture, and this time the results were incredibly dramatic. The thick of the woods created a completely blacked out background that made Katie and the dress far more ghostly and strange. Katie is a circus performer and so is thankfully used to expressing herself and throwing her body into very dramatic shapes and poses. I wanted her to appear to be running from danger, that the darkness would swallow her if she didn’t get away,…. so she twisted and twirled in the path of the wind and produced some extraordinary results. And so we walked away with a camera packed full of unexpected and really exciting pictures, after originally thinking the day would be a disaster.
When we got back it was almost 6pm, I was exhausted but also felt so exhilarated and alive. Elbie and I crashed on the living room floor and played back the raw pictures on my laptop, rolling around stuffing the sleeves of our pyjamas into our mouths groaning with delight at the close up shots of Katie in the heather. I was thrilled, the colours were beautiful and so vivid straight out the camera, and we both felt that we had learnt so much. Sometimes I think I must sound like a mad old hippy going on and on about working with nature, respecting it, and how somehow we had felt guided by it that day, but it was genuine. Both of us felt it, and I know the results were better for it. In the end we just used the grey sandy soil, dried flower petals, the sun for shadows on skin and our extremely low-tech ‘wind machine’ It felt right, and better than trampling over the location with a massive entourage of people, lighting equipment, props and over styled accessories. Katie was nude for one shot, and the others were just a simple dress that complimented the tone of the flowers, it could not have been more different to the drama of The White Queen pictures, and that for me is a great balance to have throughout the series. I tend to think about the shoots now as an entire body of work and am always trying to change the perspective, scale, and framing of every image, so there is a meandering between huge scenes back to intimate close ups. To create movement in some, whereas others are extremely posed and highly static, and to always try my best to underpin this with the emotions that I feel in that moment. I guess it might not always be successful, but to sum up, those are my goals :)

…. I think the dawn start was a bit too much for my assistant Steve ! :)
Finally, I’m sure no one will be able to face reading this after such a long blog entry, but I’ve also just done an enormous interview with Kat Williams aka ‘The Rock and Roll Bride’. Sometimes she writes about things outside of the wedding world that she finds inspiring and feel will appeal to her readers, and so she asked me to explain how Wonderland came to be, and to talk about how the series has developed. Its a good one for general information, and for a lot of the students that contact me asking for interviews I think this one will really help. You can read it here

And to end, the reason there has been such a long delay with this post is that I have spent the last few weeks creating and shooting 2 extra scenes for the next character coming…. and its a big one ! So very soon I will be introducing Wonderlands first male :) and it will be 5 pictures all at once, and I cant wait to finally share them with you all ! Oh and theres also a press update blog entry I did before this one, if you are interested in further interviews and news on how the White Queen was received, I didn’t announce it anywhere as most of you are already keep up with that stuff on my fb group :)